Bias binding is a narrow piece of fabric that is sewn onto the edge of the material to hide the raw edges. You can sew it just on the wrong side of your fabric or, for an interesting twist to your garment, sew half of the bias binding on the wrong side of the fabric and the other half on the right side. In this article, we will be taking a look at both single-fold bias binding and double-fold bias binding.
Single-Fold Bias Binding
The first step is to mark where you want the bias binding to go. It should be 0.24 inches away from the edge of your fabric. You don’t want the bias binding to be too close to the edge as this could result in a weak seam. Chalk is a good option of marker to use
The next step is to line up the raw edges of the bias binding with your chalk mark. Make sure that the right side of your bias binding is facing the right side of the material. Insert pins into the fabric and bias binding so that they are held together. If you prefer, use clips to hold them together. This stops unnecessary holes from being put into the fabric. This is especially important if you are using delicate materials like silk or satin. The ends of the bias binding need to be folded over so that you can’t see the raw edges.
Fold over the bias binding and sew along the crease. You will need to use a sewing machine and will need to sew a straight stitch into the crease of the bias binding to secure it to the fabric.
Take the pins out and press the bias binding over the seam allowance of the fabric. It is probably best to use the iron on a low setting to avoid burning the garment. You can always put a piece of cloth or a T-towel on top of the fabric which will stop any scorching.
Next, fold the bias binding over to the other side of the material. Do this at the seam you have just sewn. This makes sure that the binding is hidden.
The seam now needs to be flattened so give it a press. This will give a nice and neat edge to your garment.
Secure the bias binding with a straight stitch about 0.12 inches from the edge. You will have to ensure that the bias binding is folded in so that it won’t show.
Double-Fold Bias Binding
First, unfold your bias binding and pin it to the fabric at the edge of the fabric. The raw edges need to be lined up together and the right sides of the fabric and bias binding need to be facing each other. Pin under the ends of the bias binding so you won’t be able to see them. If there is any extra fabric extending past the edge of the bias binding, trim it off now.
Sew along the crease of your bias binding with a straight stitch on your sewing machine. At each end, backstitch to secure the bias binding.
The next step is to press the seam allowance towards the bias binding and then fold over the bias tape so that it covers the seam allowance.
Fold the bias binding over so you get half of it on each side of the fabric and then sew along the edge of the binding. The free end of the bias tape needs to be folded under otherwise the raw edge of the binding will show. Remember to cut an inch or so more of bias binding so that the edges of the tape can be folded over. You will need to secure the ends of the bias binding before sewing the rest of the tape.
You now need to crease the edge so press the folded bias binding. Then sew along the edge of the binding, making sure that the stitches are along the edge of the bias binding. The raw edges of the bias binding need to be folded over so that it won’t be seen. Mark the bias tape where the ends meet and pinch the ends. Mark the areas where the right side of the bias binding is and pin to hold the pieces together. The pins must go through both the bias binding and the fabric.
Now, secure the bias binding to the fabric by sewing a few stitches onto the crease with straight stitching. Work along the bit of fabric that you have marked. You don’t want to sew across the bias binding pieces. Instead, make sure that there are two sets of stitches. Don’t sew through the pins, but remove them as you sew.
If there is any excess bias binding fold it down. Then make sure that the ends are secured. Fold each end towards the rest of the bias binding and sew. This will ensure that the bias binding will be hidden under the seams.
Finally, sew the rest of the bias binding to the fabric. You can sew it so that the bias binding is single-sided which means that it will be hidden underneath your garment or you can sew it so that half of the binding is on the wrong side and half is on the outer edge of the fabric.
Bias is a little tricky as you have folds and creases to deal with, but it is really very simple if you follow our instructions. You can just have the bias binding on the wrong side of the fabric so that it is hidden but it gives support to your material. Alternatively, you can go one step further and have half of the bias binding on one side of the material and the other on the other side of the material. In this way, you will add an extra touch of style to your garment.